Here at Unicycle.com we are the unicycle specialists, so of course we support the building and maintenance of unicycle. We have built in to our website a tool that allows you to work out the length of the spokes you need to build your unicycle or penny farthing.
Removing tyres is easy, but if you are unsure here is a quick video showing the way I do it. We've had a few messages from customers that were unable to remove tyres from Unicycles with wide rims, these feature on all the Kris Holm Unicycles and many others.
Inner tubes are sensitive things. Even with a protective rubber tire over them, sharp objects can penetrate your treads and puncture the tube. This can occur very suddenly and take your Unicycle out of commission. Most long-distance riders carry a spare tube (sometimes two) with them when riding their Unicycle. If you have to change out your inner tube, one of the toughest aspects of the procedure will be removing the tyre from the rim.
We don't "Vlog" but we are trying to release frequent videos on all aspects of Unicycling. We are mainly focusing on "How-To" videos at the moment, giving helpful tips on keeping your Unicycling going. To checkout our channel click here.
There is a solution with the KH 42mm truing stand adaptor.
These work great once they are set up which takes a long time to get right and have difficulty with changing width of hub. In our office we have these set up for truing wheels KH wheels or when we do not have the frame.
What we prefer to use for the majority of our wheel builds is our simple home made seatpost wheel truing stand.
Not only is this stand incredibly simple to build but has an advantage over using a traditional truing stands. As it aligns the wheel to the seatpost, not the frame legs so the wheel is absolutely correctly trued for riding. For riding a unicycle this is the most important criteria.
Our stand uses a 300mm long 25.4 seatpost screwed to a block of wood. We then have a small part of an old frame with it's seatpost clamp just slipped over it. Although you can use the frame's own seatpost clamp to secure it to the post if you want. When we are truing a wheel in a 27.2 frame we use a shim.
When truing the wheel you use the seatpost to align to the centre of the rim. This will guarantee that the wheel is both round (not egg or centred vertically) and true left to right.
This solution does not work for all frames as you will need a frame that has a seatpost that passes through the crown.
1. Multi Tool
A carefully selected multi tool could be one of the most useful tools you will ever have. The Nimbus Multi tool has been specifically designed with the unicyclist in mind. This tool has all the allen Keys, spanners, spoke keys and even Torx T25 (for your disc rake rotor bolts) you will need, all in a handy lightweight tool.
Nimbus Multi Tool
Qu-Ax Multi Tool
Tacx Pandora Allen Key set
Making sure your tyre is pumped up before you start riding can make the world of difference, and of course if you should get a puncture while out riding you will need something to get that tyre re-inflated.
Unicycle.com Air Supply Mini Pump
Airace Track Pump
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3. Repair Kit
A puncture repair kit (including Tyre levers) is obviously going to help you fix that puncture and get you riding again. This is one of those items that a lot of people don’t think about until it’s too late, so be prepared and have one with you. In addition to the repair kit lots of riders will carry a spare inner-tube with them, changing an inner-tube can be quicker than fixing a puncture (good for those rainy day rides)
Weldtite Cure C-Cure Puncture Repair kit
Foss Tube Repair Patches
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4. Pedal Wrench (spanner)
Pedals are often just taken for granted, but we do need to check that they are securely attached to the cranks. If they are ridden loose this could lead to damaging the cranks. So regularly checking that they are tight will you keep you safe on your Unicycle and could also save you money.
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5. Crank extractor
The crank extractor is used for removing the cranks from your unicycle wheel. Changing the length of your cranks will change the way your unicycle rides and feels. If you aren’t lucky enough to have a Unicycle for all the different disciplines that you do, then changing cranks can allow you to use the same unicycle for a few different activities.
Crank Extractor - Multi Function
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For a rim Brake you will need a frame with Magura mounts welded to the frame (Alot of Muni frames already have these) they will look like this
If the frame has these mounts then all you need to do is get a Magura brake, some Magura clamps and a brake lever mount and you have everything you need. Here at Unicycle.com UK we have a Starter brake kit which contains all you need to get riding with a brake.
For a Disc brake setup there are two paths you can take, Internal or external.
For this option you will need a Disc Hub* (such as the Nimbus Oracle Disc Hub), Nimbus D’brake (if your frame does not have a disc brake tab), Brake lever mount and a Disc brake.
*we offer a wheel building service
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For this option you will need a pair of disc compatible cranks (such as the Kris Holm Dual hole Spirit Cranks), Nimbus D’Brake (if your frame does not have a disc brake tab, a few washers may be required), Brake lever mount and a Disc brake.
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What you will require:
Replacement bearings - see here for quality replacement bearings, Crank extractor and bearing puller - again we sell these. Pedal spanner, 14mm Socket or 8mm Allen key, Rubber hammer/mallet and some cut of sections of seat post.
To remove and fit bearings:
1. Remove the dust covers from the cranks (if you have them).
2. Remove the nuts/bolts from the centre of the cranks
3. Remove the cranks using a crank extractor. (Be sure to screw the extractor fully home before you start to extract the cranks).
4. Remove the wheel from the frame, in most cases this involves removing 4 bolts from the bracket that surrounds the bearing.
5. Fit the bearing puller over the bearings and use a spanner to pull the bearing from the hub. Be sure to seat the legs of the bearing puller securely under the bearing so that it is not destroyed before it is removed from the hub. For ISIS hubs use the ISIS cap from the crank extractor to prevent the bearing puller damaging the threads in the hub.
6. Once both bearings have been removed clean the hub shaft with wire wool and little oil to remove any rust or dirt.
7. Fit new bearings over the shaft (be sure to fit spacer on first if one was fitted) and gently push, ensuring that it is square with the shaft. When it can not be pushed any further on by hand, slip an old piece of seatpost over the shaft on both bearings (Ensure that the Old seatpost is pressing on the centre of the bearing, not the outer ring or rubber seal). Place the wheel on a solid surface or floor. Hit the old seatpost with a hammer until bearing is seated home (see pic below)
8. Clean the bearing holders to be sure that there is no dirt or rust.
9. Re-fit the wheel in the frame. Be sure not to over tighten the bearing cups as this will impede the performance of the bearing.
10. Re-fit the cranks on the hub. Be sure to check that the cranks are on the correct side. There should be an L or R on the cranks to indicate which is which.
12. Tighten the crank nuts/bolts these must be secure. Tighten well but do not over tighten.
13. Replace the plastic dust caps (if you have them).
14. Go for a ride :-)
Here is also a couple of great videos of David riding, and building his creation.